Wednesday, April 30, 2014
Spectacular Day
Today was really wonderful. My planning was really good too. I got up at 5 am and caught the 6:30 am train to Matsuyama station. Five minutes after I got the the bus to Kuma Kogen pulled up. I really had no choice but to take the bus and train route today because by staying back in Uwajima I was far from the pilgrimage route. But I sure didn't mind resting my legs for a couple of hours.
When I got to Kuma I went straight to the place where I planned to stay. I chose it because it was recommended in my guidebook and I loved the name. It's called Garden Time. I went there first so I could leave my pack there while I made the difficult climb to temples 44 and 45. 44, Daihoji was actually just a short hike although it was at the top of a hill. It was a very pretty place high on the hill overlooking the town and the grounds were filled with deep pink blossoming trees. They were a gorgeous contrast against the bright green spring leaves on so many of the other trees.
From there it was a fairly straight up steep climb for a while, followed by an equally steep descent back down to the road. The route followed the road for a few kilometers then plunged back into the deep forest. It climbed and climbed for what seemed like an eternity. Then it plunged back down for a few more kilometers. It was taking me forever to seem to be making any progress. The mountains here on Shikoku are incredibly steep, and this was one of the steepest trails I have encountered so far. Normally I enjoy the downhill but the downhill sections were treacherous. I was moving just as slowly in either direction.
I knew I would need to walk back
To Garden Time and I was really beginning to dread the idea of trying to work my way back up those mountains. I finally descended into the upper gate to Iwayaji, temple number 45. I was sort of staggering by the time I got there. Even my walking stick was tired and the bell fell off and nearly went bouncing down the mountain. But I caught it in time.
Iwayaji is considered a 'nansho' temple which means 'difficult place.' You can say that again! I don't know how they ever built it there. It is practically hanging off the side of an enormous volcanic rock wall.
My guidebook shows an alternate route back to temple 44 that follows the road for a bigger part of the route. I knew I didn't have enough energy left to attempt that horrendous climb again so I went for the other route. Just getting down the paths and stairways to the place where cars were parked was quite a challenge. Those who drove there got a pretty substantial workout just getting up to the temple from the parking lot.
I found the alternate route to be quite pleasant. It did connect with the other route but after the mountain climbing part. I also decided to avoid the big climb back up to temple 44 and just followed the highway right through the long tunnel and back into town. I didn't have any more climb left in me for today.
I ended my day with a delicious Japanese traditional dinner of sashimi, tempura, rice and miso soup. Now to rest and get ready for the climb tomorrow to number 46.
When I got to Kuma I went straight to the place where I planned to stay. I chose it because it was recommended in my guidebook and I loved the name. It's called Garden Time. I went there first so I could leave my pack there while I made the difficult climb to temples 44 and 45. 44, Daihoji was actually just a short hike although it was at the top of a hill. It was a very pretty place high on the hill overlooking the town and the grounds were filled with deep pink blossoming trees. They were a gorgeous contrast against the bright green spring leaves on so many of the other trees.
From there it was a fairly straight up steep climb for a while, followed by an equally steep descent back down to the road. The route followed the road for a few kilometers then plunged back into the deep forest. It climbed and climbed for what seemed like an eternity. Then it plunged back down for a few more kilometers. It was taking me forever to seem to be making any progress. The mountains here on Shikoku are incredibly steep, and this was one of the steepest trails I have encountered so far. Normally I enjoy the downhill but the downhill sections were treacherous. I was moving just as slowly in either direction.
I knew I would need to walk back
To Garden Time and I was really beginning to dread the idea of trying to work my way back up those mountains. I finally descended into the upper gate to Iwayaji, temple number 45. I was sort of staggering by the time I got there. Even my walking stick was tired and the bell fell off and nearly went bouncing down the mountain. But I caught it in time.
Iwayaji is considered a 'nansho' temple which means 'difficult place.' You can say that again! I don't know how they ever built it there. It is practically hanging off the side of an enormous volcanic rock wall.
My guidebook shows an alternate route back to temple 44 that follows the road for a bigger part of the route. I knew I didn't have enough energy left to attempt that horrendous climb again so I went for the other route. Just getting down the paths and stairways to the place where cars were parked was quite a challenge. Those who drove there got a pretty substantial workout just getting up to the temple from the parking lot.
I found the alternate route to be quite pleasant. It did connect with the other route but after the mountain climbing part. I also decided to avoid the big climb back up to temple 44 and just followed the highway right through the long tunnel and back into town. I didn't have any more climb left in me for today.
I ended my day with a delicious Japanese traditional dinner of sashimi, tempura, rice and miso soup. Now to rest and get ready for the climb tomorrow to number 46.
Tuesday, April 29, 2014
Temple 45 Iwayaji
A Well Planned Day
Today was just the right amount of walking and it was especially nice that I had planned a second night here at my hotel in Uwajima. That meant I got to enjoy the day without carrying my pack.
My first temple of the day was Ryukoji, number 41 perched on top of a hill of course! It had spectacular gardens filled with pink flowers and bright pink flowering bushes. I sure wish I could get something like that to grow in my yard.
Number 42 was only about 3 kilometers down the road and didn't even involve climbing a mountain. Butsumokuji was a nice short walk. A group of statues dressed in bright red bibs and hats greeted me as I entered.
The trip onward to temple number 43, Meisekiji was not nearly so easy. I felt like the route was continually leading me around in circles. There were several sections of beautiful mountain trails though. It really was a hiker's paradise for parts of the 10 kilometer trip. It did climb up over one fairly steep mountain though. It was nice to finally reach the top. But the heavy rains from yesterday made for a very slippery descent. I only slipped and fell once. After I left the trails the route went back back to weaving in and out of tiny streets and alleys, crossing the same main roads over and over again until it finally climbed up one long final hill. I was beginning to think there really was no temple number 43.
Now it was time to hike on down to the station and catch the train back to Uwajima. Before I could go down though, I had to climb up one more steep slippery mountain trail. But it only went uphill for about a half kilometer then it steeply descended right down to the station. It was a much easier day than yesterday but I think I am just as tired.
It was supposed to rain all day and it never rained a single drop. I appreciated that little gift from Mother Nature.
My first temple of the day was Ryukoji, number 41 perched on top of a hill of course! It had spectacular gardens filled with pink flowers and bright pink flowering bushes. I sure wish I could get something like that to grow in my yard.
Number 42 was only about 3 kilometers down the road and didn't even involve climbing a mountain. Butsumokuji was a nice short walk. A group of statues dressed in bright red bibs and hats greeted me as I entered.
The trip onward to temple number 43, Meisekiji was not nearly so easy. I felt like the route was continually leading me around in circles. There were several sections of beautiful mountain trails though. It really was a hiker's paradise for parts of the 10 kilometer trip. It did climb up over one fairly steep mountain though. It was nice to finally reach the top. But the heavy rains from yesterday made for a very slippery descent. I only slipped and fell once. After I left the trails the route went back back to weaving in and out of tiny streets and alleys, crossing the same main roads over and over again until it finally climbed up one long final hill. I was beginning to think there really was no temple number 43.
Now it was time to hike on down to the station and catch the train back to Uwajima. Before I could go down though, I had to climb up one more steep slippery mountain trail. But it only went uphill for about a half kilometer then it steeply descended right down to the station. It was a much easier day than yesterday but I think I am just as tired.
It was supposed to rain all day and it never rained a single drop. I appreciated that little gift from Mother Nature.
Monday, April 28, 2014
Walking to Uwajima
Oh what a long day this was. The next temple was too far to reach in a single day but I hoped to at least get half of the 50 kilometers behind me. Looking at the lodging prospects along the way, I decided to walk all the way to Uwajima, about 40 kilometers. Since I didn't need to reach a temple before the office closing time, I figured I could take as long as I wanted. It was really just a marathon with a few extras like my backpack and numerous hills.
The forecast was for rain but in the morning it was only cloudy so I decided to go for it.
There are several pilgrim routes but due to the threat of rain I chose the ocean view route over the Kashiwazaka Trail that looked pretty rugged and climbs over a couple of substantial mountains. I didn't think I would enjoy being up there on a mountain trail in a downpour.
The walk along the water was really nice even though it was pretty cloudy. I love the sights and sounds of the sea.
I had quite an issue with the wind however. The attachment to one of the ties on my pointed straw hat broke because the wind was constantly tearing it off my head. I had to chase it down the street on several occasions. When the rain finally did arrive it didn't chase the wind away at all. My rain poncho worked great except for the time the wind hit me from behind and blew it right over my head covering my face. I really hope no one was looking. It took a bit of fiddling to untangle myself from that mess. That was the first time I had to chase after my hat that was galloping down the road.
My hair is really fine and tangles easily. It has been a constant battle trying to protect it. This morning I braided it and tied my scarf around my head then put the hat over it. By the end of the day I had completely given up after chasing my hat several times and also having the scarf ripped off my head a few times. I will be detangling for the rest of the evening.
Once I got to Uwajima I was so happy to be there. But I really wasn't there as such. All the hotels are near the train station but I walked through the city for at least two hours trying to get to the station. It is a very large city compared to most of the other towns along the 88 temple route.
The next 3 temples are all along the rail line. So I am staying two nights in this hotel so I can walk to all 3 then take the train back here. That way my pack can stay in my room and I can have a more comfortable day, even though rain is still in the forecast. Temple 44 is about 70 kilometers from 43 so I will likely just use the train the next morning to get me closer to it.
I need to soak my feet in cold water for a while now.
The forecast was for rain but in the morning it was only cloudy so I decided to go for it.
There are several pilgrim routes but due to the threat of rain I chose the ocean view route over the Kashiwazaka Trail that looked pretty rugged and climbs over a couple of substantial mountains. I didn't think I would enjoy being up there on a mountain trail in a downpour.
The walk along the water was really nice even though it was pretty cloudy. I love the sights and sounds of the sea.
I had quite an issue with the wind however. The attachment to one of the ties on my pointed straw hat broke because the wind was constantly tearing it off my head. I had to chase it down the street on several occasions. When the rain finally did arrive it didn't chase the wind away at all. My rain poncho worked great except for the time the wind hit me from behind and blew it right over my head covering my face. I really hope no one was looking. It took a bit of fiddling to untangle myself from that mess. That was the first time I had to chase after my hat that was galloping down the road.
My hair is really fine and tangles easily. It has been a constant battle trying to protect it. This morning I braided it and tied my scarf around my head then put the hat over it. By the end of the day I had completely given up after chasing my hat several times and also having the scarf ripped off my head a few times. I will be detangling for the rest of the evening.
Once I got to Uwajima I was so happy to be there. But I really wasn't there as such. All the hotels are near the train station but I walked through the city for at least two hours trying to get to the station. It is a very large city compared to most of the other towns along the 88 temple route.
The next 3 temples are all along the rail line. So I am staying two nights in this hotel so I can walk to all 3 then take the train back here. That way my pack can stay in my room and I can have a more comfortable day, even though rain is still in the forecast. Temple 44 is about 70 kilometers from 43 so I will likely just use the train the next morning to get me closer to it.
I need to soak my feet in cold water for a while now.
Walk Along the Seashore
Sunday, April 27, 2014
A Wonderful Day
Today was just a perfect day for a walk in the sunshine in Shikoku. I started by catching the train back to the trail near temple number 39 from Nakamura Station. It was waiting for me on the track when I got there. I met two others who must have had the same plan because they were also dressed like me and were headed to number 39. We walked together and arrived right around the time the temple office opened at 7 am.
Enkoji was surrounded by the usual lush greenery and it also had the most beautiful pond filled with some of the biggest and most energetic koi fish I have ever seen. When I got close enough to take pictures I thought they were all going to leap right out of the water into my arms. I suspect they thought I was there to feed them. It was fascinating watching them jumping over each other to see who could get the closest to me. It was so nice there that I lingered around for a while. I'm not sure where the other two people went, but I suspect they went back to the station and continued on via train. It was 27 kilometers to the next temple and involved some substantial mountain climbing.
Since it was such a nice day I was really looking forward to the walk. It started out in town along the side of the road but quickly turned off through tiny villages and small winding country roads. The roads got smaller and climbed higher until they diminished into a beautiful but steep mountain trail.
I climbed through a combination of bamboo, eucalyptus, and pine forest, with frequent bushes with deep pink blossoms. Occasionally I got views down to the little villages below and the rugged coastline. It was cool and lovely in every way.
When I finally reached the top of the pass I was a little worried because there seemed to be several trails from there, all with signs that didn't point to anything on my map pages. Even more perplexing, none of the signs pointed towards the next temple. I stood there for a while in total confusion. My best guess was the trail leading to the right. It looked the closest to the direction of the trail in my guide book, and it seemed to be the best trail. Happily it turned out to be the right one. I followed it downhill for many miles to a junction where I could take a longer route up over another mountain or take the shorter route on the wide bike trail along the highway. It was getting later so I took the shorter route.
Temple 40 was right in the next town just half a kilometer from the town center. So I paid my visit to Kanjizaiji then walked back into town to find a hotel shown on my map. I was happy they had a room for me.
I would like to walk part of the 50 kilometers to temple 41 tomorrow but it involves more mountain passes and the forecast is for rain. If the weather is really horrible I may opt for a bus ride to Uwajima and leave my pack at a hotel there and walk to 41, 42, and 43 which are fairly close by. I will decide in the morning. Right now there is a fierce icy cold wind blowing outside.
Enkoji was surrounded by the usual lush greenery and it also had the most beautiful pond filled with some of the biggest and most energetic koi fish I have ever seen. When I got close enough to take pictures I thought they were all going to leap right out of the water into my arms. I suspect they thought I was there to feed them. It was fascinating watching them jumping over each other to see who could get the closest to me. It was so nice there that I lingered around for a while. I'm not sure where the other two people went, but I suspect they went back to the station and continued on via train. It was 27 kilometers to the next temple and involved some substantial mountain climbing.
Since it was such a nice day I was really looking forward to the walk. It started out in town along the side of the road but quickly turned off through tiny villages and small winding country roads. The roads got smaller and climbed higher until they diminished into a beautiful but steep mountain trail.
I climbed through a combination of bamboo, eucalyptus, and pine forest, with frequent bushes with deep pink blossoms. Occasionally I got views down to the little villages below and the rugged coastline. It was cool and lovely in every way.
When I finally reached the top of the pass I was a little worried because there seemed to be several trails from there, all with signs that didn't point to anything on my map pages. Even more perplexing, none of the signs pointed towards the next temple. I stood there for a while in total confusion. My best guess was the trail leading to the right. It looked the closest to the direction of the trail in my guide book, and it seemed to be the best trail. Happily it turned out to be the right one. I followed it downhill for many miles to a junction where I could take a longer route up over another mountain or take the shorter route on the wide bike trail along the highway. It was getting later so I took the shorter route.
Temple 40 was right in the next town just half a kilometer from the town center. So I paid my visit to Kanjizaiji then walked back into town to find a hotel shown on my map. I was happy they had a room for me.
I would like to walk part of the 50 kilometers to temple 41 tomorrow but it involves more mountain passes and the forecast is for rain. If the weather is really horrible I may opt for a bus ride to Uwajima and leave my pack at a hotel there and walk to 41, 42, and 43 which are fairly close by. I will decide in the morning. Right now there is a fierce icy cold wind blowing outside.
Saturday, April 26, 2014
Day of Rest!
Well it was sort of a day of rest. 84 kilometers to the next temple plus it would also involve nearly the same amount back along the road to the following temple.
This morning I was exhausted and could hardly drag myself out of bed to begin with, but I had planned to at least walk some of it. 20 plus miles a day for nearly two weeks was starting to wear me out. So I decided to chop off some of the distance with a train ride to the Nakamura Station. I was so lucky again because the train pulled in just as I got to the station. At Nakamura I stumbled around for a while searching for the pilgrim route, with no luck. My guide book pages looked more like a picture of tossed spaghetti than of a map. It shows so many optional routes that I had no idea where to start. Then the bus to Ashizuri-misaki pulled in. I think it was calling my name so I hopped on. For the next hour and a half my aching feet were thanking me.
What a spectacular ride it was too. Magnificent ocean views and the lush green vegetation on the towering mountains, that I was a bit happy not to have to climb today. The final bus stop was right in front of temple 38 at the tip of the peninsula.
I think this was the most beautiful temple so far. Beautiful ponds and gardens all around it. On each of my trips I scatter a little packet of my mother's ashes in a special place. This time I chose a garden at the top of the temple grounds there at Kongofukuji. I think my mom would have liked that place.
The bus ride itself was terrifying at times on the narrowest twisting mountain road I have ever seen. It was barely wide enough for the bus, but of course we frequently met other cars and even another bus from the other direction. All along the way I spotted the familiar red pilgrimage signs and horrifying thoughts went through my head as I pictured myself caught between a car and a bus and the sheer drop to the sea on this road with no hint of sidewalk or shoulder.
After my temple visit I found a Tourist Information Center and asked their advice in sorting out my walking route to temple 39. Their consensus was to point me back to that bus stop and scoot back to Nakamura then catch the train to rejoin the trail beyond that nightmarish route. When the bus pulled up my happy feet made me hop back on.
I was so tired anyway that it was certainly the best choice. When I got back to Nakamura Station I spotted a hotel across the street and have parked myself there for the night.
In the morning I can cross the street and take the train back to the pilgrim trail. Then on to temples 38 and 40 for tomorrow.
This morning I was exhausted and could hardly drag myself out of bed to begin with, but I had planned to at least walk some of it. 20 plus miles a day for nearly two weeks was starting to wear me out. So I decided to chop off some of the distance with a train ride to the Nakamura Station. I was so lucky again because the train pulled in just as I got to the station. At Nakamura I stumbled around for a while searching for the pilgrim route, with no luck. My guide book pages looked more like a picture of tossed spaghetti than of a map. It shows so many optional routes that I had no idea where to start. Then the bus to Ashizuri-misaki pulled in. I think it was calling my name so I hopped on. For the next hour and a half my aching feet were thanking me.
What a spectacular ride it was too. Magnificent ocean views and the lush green vegetation on the towering mountains, that I was a bit happy not to have to climb today. The final bus stop was right in front of temple 38 at the tip of the peninsula.
I think this was the most beautiful temple so far. Beautiful ponds and gardens all around it. On each of my trips I scatter a little packet of my mother's ashes in a special place. This time I chose a garden at the top of the temple grounds there at Kongofukuji. I think my mom would have liked that place.
The bus ride itself was terrifying at times on the narrowest twisting mountain road I have ever seen. It was barely wide enough for the bus, but of course we frequently met other cars and even another bus from the other direction. All along the way I spotted the familiar red pilgrimage signs and horrifying thoughts went through my head as I pictured myself caught between a car and a bus and the sheer drop to the sea on this road with no hint of sidewalk or shoulder.
After my temple visit I found a Tourist Information Center and asked their advice in sorting out my walking route to temple 39. Their consensus was to point me back to that bus stop and scoot back to Nakamura then catch the train to rejoin the trail beyond that nightmarish route. When the bus pulled up my happy feet made me hop back on.
I was so tired anyway that it was certainly the best choice. When I got back to Nakamura Station I spotted a hotel across the street and have parked myself there for the night.
In the morning I can cross the street and take the train back to the pilgrim trail. Then on to temples 38 and 40 for tomorrow.
Friday, April 25, 2014
Temple 37 Iwamotoji
A Day Filled With Good Luck
Little things just seemed to fall into place today. I had picked the perfect place to stay last night. It was right on the trail to temple 35. So I got up at 5 am and was on my way up by 5:30. The great thing was being able to leave my pack in my room and climb up the hill without any weight. It was such a beautiful morning and I was one of the first visitors to arrive.
I have been having a constant struggle with my hair. It is long and very fine. It is constantly windy so every night I feel like I tear half of it out trying to get rid of the tangles. I keep looking for a scarf so I can keep it out of the wind. When I got my temple book stamped the woman who signed it gave me a gift. She handed me a beautiful white scarf as osetai! I wrapped it around my hair and my problem was solved.
I have also been having a constant issue with my pointed straw hat. It has a woven straw headband inside that has always been terribly uncomfortable. On the way down from the temple 35 this morning, the band came loose. I figured I would need to get a new hat. But I found that by just removing the band altogether, and tying the ties directly to the hat, I suddenly had a very comfortable hat. So that was my second piece of good fortune.
The path was well marked to temple 36. At one point the road went into a tunnel but the walking trail went up over the mountain instead of through it. It was so tempting to simply follow the cars. But I'm glad I didn't because that was one of the most beautiful trails I have ever walked! It was through dense forest with flowers everywhere and magnificent views of the ocean. I would hate to have missed that even though it was quite a climb.
The trail ended in a small village and followed a road over a long bridge then it snaked its way around a rugged peninsula to Shoryuji number 36, another absolutely beautiful temple with a bright red pagoda surrounded by bright green trees. Waterfalls plunged off the cliffs into little pools surrounded by fascinating statues. A staircase that seemed endless led to the main temple building. My legs were tired but when I saw the tiniest little old bent over woman with a back brace and a single crutch working her way up all those steps, I didn't mind my aching legs anymore. The dedication of some of the elderly here in Japan is really an inspiration. They all seem to be so active, climbing long stairways to temples, working in their gardens or out in the fields. I see little old ladies who look to be in their 90's pushing carts, and even riding bicycles. They don't seem to allow their age to place any limitations on their activities. I find them very inspiring.
After Shoryuji I had to decide where to spend the night. I got back to the little village and hoped I could find a ferry that was listed on my map. It was very tricky to find but after asking numerous people, I finally found a small boat behind a warehouse. That turned out to be the ferry. A man who was waiting there told me it was leaving in 30 minutes. The next one was not for a couple more hours! That was really lucky. When he found out I was from Alaska he started taking pictures of me! Alaska seems to make a big hit around here.
The ferry ride around Uranouchi Bay was really fun and cut at least 15 miles of walking off of my trip. When we docked at Yokonami I called a hotel in Susaki City and managed to book a hotel for tonight. I tried Expedia.com first but their closest suggestion from my current location was Hilo, Hawaii! Really now Expedia, surely you can do better than that.
I still had over 10 kilometers to walk to my hotel but it was a nice walk even though my feet feel like they are going to fall off. I soaked them in cold water for a while when I finally got to my room.
I have been having a constant struggle with my hair. It is long and very fine. It is constantly windy so every night I feel like I tear half of it out trying to get rid of the tangles. I keep looking for a scarf so I can keep it out of the wind. When I got my temple book stamped the woman who signed it gave me a gift. She handed me a beautiful white scarf as osetai! I wrapped it around my hair and my problem was solved.
I have also been having a constant issue with my pointed straw hat. It has a woven straw headband inside that has always been terribly uncomfortable. On the way down from the temple 35 this morning, the band came loose. I figured I would need to get a new hat. But I found that by just removing the band altogether, and tying the ties directly to the hat, I suddenly had a very comfortable hat. So that was my second piece of good fortune.
The path was well marked to temple 36. At one point the road went into a tunnel but the walking trail went up over the mountain instead of through it. It was so tempting to simply follow the cars. But I'm glad I didn't because that was one of the most beautiful trails I have ever walked! It was through dense forest with flowers everywhere and magnificent views of the ocean. I would hate to have missed that even though it was quite a climb.
The trail ended in a small village and followed a road over a long bridge then it snaked its way around a rugged peninsula to Shoryuji number 36, another absolutely beautiful temple with a bright red pagoda surrounded by bright green trees. Waterfalls plunged off the cliffs into little pools surrounded by fascinating statues. A staircase that seemed endless led to the main temple building. My legs were tired but when I saw the tiniest little old bent over woman with a back brace and a single crutch working her way up all those steps, I didn't mind my aching legs anymore. The dedication of some of the elderly here in Japan is really an inspiration. They all seem to be so active, climbing long stairways to temples, working in their gardens or out in the fields. I see little old ladies who look to be in their 90's pushing carts, and even riding bicycles. They don't seem to allow their age to place any limitations on their activities. I find them very inspiring.
After Shoryuji I had to decide where to spend the night. I got back to the little village and hoped I could find a ferry that was listed on my map. It was very tricky to find but after asking numerous people, I finally found a small boat behind a warehouse. That turned out to be the ferry. A man who was waiting there told me it was leaving in 30 minutes. The next one was not for a couple more hours! That was really lucky. When he found out I was from Alaska he started taking pictures of me! Alaska seems to make a big hit around here.
The ferry ride around Uranouchi Bay was really fun and cut at least 15 miles of walking off of my trip. When we docked at Yokonami I called a hotel in Susaki City and managed to book a hotel for tonight. I tried Expedia.com first but their closest suggestion from my current location was Hilo, Hawaii! Really now Expedia, surely you can do better than that.
I still had over 10 kilometers to walk to my hotel but it was a nice walk even though my feet feel like they are going to fall off. I soaked them in cold water for a while when I finally got to my room.
Thursday, April 24, 2014
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