Today was really wonderful. My planning was really good too. I got up at 5 am and caught the 6:30 am train to Matsuyama station. Five minutes after I got the the bus to Kuma Kogen pulled up. I really had no choice but to take the bus and train route today because by staying back in Uwajima I was far from the pilgrimage route. But I sure didn't mind resting my legs for a couple of hours.
When I got to Kuma I went straight to the place where I planned to stay. I chose it because it was recommended in my guidebook and I loved the name. It's called Garden Time. I went there first so I could leave my pack there while I made the difficult climb to temples 44 and 45. 44, Daihoji was actually just a short hike although it was at the top of a hill. It was a very pretty place high on the hill overlooking the town and the grounds were filled with deep pink blossoming trees. They were a gorgeous contrast against the bright green spring leaves on so many of the other trees.
From there it was a fairly straight up steep climb for a while, followed by an equally steep descent back down to the road. The route followed the road for a few kilometers then plunged back into the deep forest. It climbed and climbed for what seemed like an eternity. Then it plunged back down for a few more kilometers. It was taking me forever to seem to be making any progress. The mountains here on Shikoku are incredibly steep, and this was one of the steepest trails I have encountered so far. Normally I enjoy the downhill but the downhill sections were treacherous. I was moving just as slowly in either direction.
I knew I would need to walk back
To Garden Time and I was really beginning to dread the idea of trying to work my way back up those mountains. I finally descended into the upper gate to Iwayaji, temple number 45. I was sort of staggering by the time I got there. Even my walking stick was tired and the bell fell off and nearly went bouncing down the mountain. But I caught it in time.
Iwayaji is considered a 'nansho' temple which means 'difficult place.' You can say that again! I don't know how they ever built it there. It is practically hanging off the side of an enormous volcanic rock wall.
My guidebook shows an alternate route back to temple 44 that follows the road for a bigger part of the route. I knew I didn't have enough energy left to attempt that horrendous climb again so I went for the other route. Just getting down the paths and stairways to the place where cars were parked was quite a challenge. Those who drove there got a pretty substantial workout just getting up to the temple from the parking lot.
I found the alternate route to be quite pleasant. It did connect with the other route but after the mountain climbing part. I also decided to avoid the big climb back up to temple 44 and just followed the highway right through the long tunnel and back into town. I didn't have any more climb left in me for today.
I ended my day with a delicious Japanese traditional dinner of sashimi, tempura, rice and miso soup. Now to rest and get ready for the climb tomorrow to number 46.
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