I was wondering how I would feel about the first two temples I planned to visit today. My guidebook shows them both on top of their own special pointed peaks. But actually they were both wonderful hikes.
84, Yashimaji seemed to take forever but was a beautiful paved trail. I was really poking along though and not feeling so athletic as runners kept racing uphill by me as if I was standing still. Even little old ladies were passing me by. I was really tired this morning and didn't have much ambition I guess.
From there it was a long downhill often on incredibly steep trails. There were even ropes to hold onto in some places and I was sure glad they were there. The terrain is extremely steep in this area so once off the paved roads it can be just as challenging going downhill as uphill. I was happy to get back to roads even if they can be a little boring. When I was done going down I had go right back up the next mountain to temple 85, Yakuriji. It was so steep that it actually had a cable car. I had considered using it but along the way a little lady stopped me to give me some cookies and tea. She also gave me some candy and said I should bow when I reached the gate where the cable car starts, then eat the candy to get me to the top! How could I take the cable car after that!
At the gate I gave a deep bow and ate my candy. That walk was amazing and on a beautiful trail paved with big rocks. You could see the ocean and all of Tokushima down below. I really loved that hike. The temple was in a spectacular setting with tree covered mountains in the background. Pink azaleas were in bloom everywhere. As I left the temple grounds on my way to temple 86 I passed a beautiful bright red pagoda. The trail down quickly changed from smooth paved road to old pilgrim trail shortcuts that were almost terrifying from their steepness. I think this route would be impossible in the rain. It was scary enough on dry ground. I didn't want to have some spectacular fall and need to be rescued, so I was very slow and careful.
Once down on the flatland again it was a gentle walk through village streets and paths to Shidoji which had another beautiful pagoda. I was surprised that by the time I finished my visit there, it was only about 1:30 in the afternoon. I realized I had plenty of time to make the next 7.5 kilometers to temple 87, Nagaoji. I figured with those previous mountains to climb I would just be lucky to reach number 86. But I easily reached 87. It was really hot though and I had to drink a lot of water along the way. The man who signed my book back at 86 gave me a big bag of cookies because he was so impressed to meet someone from Alaska walking this pilgrimage. I think those cookies are what got me to Nagaoji. The last 3 kilometers were starting to feel like 100 miles because I was getting really hot and tired.
Nagaoji had lots of little statues wearing their red hats and bibs. There were a lot of other pilgrims there also. Some groups travel by bus and it's interesting to listen to them as they chant their prayers out loud in unison.
The train station was a 5 minute walk away so I took the train back to my hotel.
Tomorrow I will visit the last of the 88 temples. It is a bit of a logistical problem because it is 12 kilometers from temple 87 and straight up a mountain. From there it is about 40 kilometers back to temple number 1. I'm not sure how I will tackle it. I may find it is too much to go up and back so I've decided to keep my hotel here in Takushima. In the morning I will take the train back to Nagaoji and resume the route to number 88. I will either walk back or try to catch the bus back down to the train station by Nagaoji. I like that I can leave my pack in my room for this final big climb.
The pilgrimage itself will be over but since I will have time, I plan to visit Mt Koya.
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