I spent several days figuring out how I would visit this temple. It is over 12 kilometers from the previous one plus there really is no logical next destination after you reach it. There certainly are no reasonable accommodations near it either. So I decided to just keep my hotel in Takamatsu and take the train to temple 87 and walk from there. I figured I would either simply walk back or take a bus back afterwards.
When I woke up the forecast was 20% chance of rain but it sure didn't look like rain was on the way. I just packed my important things in plastic and left my rain poncho in my pack in my room.
Of course, immediately after I stepped off the train it started to rain! I saw a little convenience store and bought a disposable raincoat, which was perfect since I didn't need the poncho to cover my pack. It stopped raining soon after and was a great temperature for my hike. It was a long gradual uphill climb mostly along highway 3 for a few hours. But then it left the highway and became a series of trails, each one steeper than the last.
Most of the trails here are amazingly well maintained. Many have hundreds even thousands of log stairs that must have been an incredible project for those who originally installed them.
As I got higher, the trail got steeper. It was really beautiful though and often followed lovely little streams with small waterfalls and lots of croaking frogs that I never did see.
The higher I went the more difficult it became. Finally as I approached the summit of Mt. Nyotai all of those well groomed log stairways disappeared. At one point I thought the trail itself had simply ended because there was no sign of anything resembling a trail. But there was a small sign pointing up into the rocks so I finally had to accept that it really was the trail. It became a rock scramble using both hands and feet and at times wishing for a rope for protection. Another pilgrim caught up with me at that point and we grunted and groaned our way to the top. I was really afraid of having a bad fall so I was glad there was someone else nearby. I kept thinking of how lucky I had been that the rain had stopped. I think it might have been impossible in heavy rain.
When I finally reached the top it was just as treacherous going down the other side. The temple itself is halfway down the other side of that mountain. Where there were the log steps it was great, but in many places it was just steep narrow trail of loose gravel. My shoes no longer have any tread so I was holding my breath with every step.
The views across the valley and the blooming azalea bushes eased the stress of the difficult physical aspect of the trail. I was really happy when I finally heard someone down below ring the temple bell. At least then I knew there really probably was a temple down there somewhere. I was so thrilled when I finally reached it. I was wondering how much farther my walk might have been if I had walked up the highway where the cars were parked. I wondered if it would have been worth the extra mileage. But that trail was so beautiful that I have really already forgotten how difficult it felt at the time.
I certainly have some very good luck though. As soon as I was finished with my temple visit it started to pour rain. I knew there was no way I would be willing to walk back the way I came, and in that downpour I had no desire to walk down the highway either. I joined a collection of other people and we waited at the bus stop for the bus that took me back down to the train station where I caught a local train back to my hotel. While we waited for the bus a couple of friendly dogs wandered from person to person looking for snacks. I wondered if they were mascots of Temple 88.
I have done it. I completed the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. I didn't get to walk the entire route because I just didn't have enough time. I did cut off some of the longer distances with a few train and bus rides and one very enjoyable cable car ride. But I walked about 20 to 25 miles nearly every day and climbed a lot of mountains. I met so many wonderful people too.
Most people were shocked that I was walking alone and everyone got excited when I told them I live in Alaska. They all wanted to know if I ever got to see the Northern Lights, and how cold it is there plus how I was dealing with the heat in Japan. Everyone tried to help me. Especially the men. I think they all worried about me because I was alone and also so often had a totally confused look on my face as I scratched my head trying to decipher my guidebook. They were always eager to help me out and get me pointed in the right direction. I think I must have said "どうもありがとうございました" "thank you very much" at least ten thousand times and bowed at least that many times to return their kindness.
The pilgrimage is over but I still have about a week left, I plan to go to Koya-San (Mt. Koya) which is kind of like the 'Vatican' of Japanese Shingon Buddhism. Most pilgrims like to end their pilgrimage there to thank Kobo Daishi for his support on the pilgrimage that legend says he founded. It must be an amazing place and there are over 100 temples there!
So my next challenge is figuring out how to get there and what to do when I do get there!
No comments:
Post a Comment